Pioneering Archive Preserves Himalayan Climbing History
The meticulous records of Himalayan expeditions, once the domain of a legendary American journalist, are now being meticulously maintained and expanded in a digital format, ensuring the legacy of mountaineering history endures for future generations.
Billi Bierling, a German climber aged 58, now stewards this invaluable archive, a role she inherited from her mentor, the late Elizabeth Hawley. Hawley, an American journalist, began her unique post-expedition interview process in Nepal in 1963 while covering an American Everest expedition.
A Fascination with People, Not Peaks
“It was her fascination,” Bierling stated, recalling her mentor’s dedication. Hawley’s interest lay not in personal ascents, as Bierling explained, “She never climbed. She never even went to a base camp — but the people interested her.”
For over 50 years, Hawley chronicled climbs in the Himalayas, earning her the moniker “the Sherlock Holmes of the mountaineering world” from none other than Sir Edmund Hillary, the co-discoverer of the Everest summit. By the time of her passing in 2018, Hawley had established herself as an authoritative voice on Himalayan mountaineering, and the database she initiated had become the definitive record of expeditions, consulted by climbers, historians, and researchers alike.
From Grilling Legends to Digital Transformation
Bierling, who first met Hawley in 2001 and began assisting her in 2004, described her mentor’s rigorous approach. “She was very, very keen on her data, on her information,” Bierling recalled. Hawley treated everyone, from climbing legends to relative unknowns, with the same thorough questioning. “It didn’t matter whether you were Reinhold Messner or you were Ueli Steck,” Bierling added, referring to renowned Italian and Swiss climbers, “Or if you were Billi Bierling, a nobody,” she said with a smile.
Today, Bierling is a key part of the team continuing this vital work, updating the extensive database year after year. As more climbers attempt the world’s highest peaks annually, the importance of accurately recording these ascents has grown exponentially.
The Evolution of Record-Keeping
The methods of data collection have evolved significantly since Hawley’s early days. In the 1970s, Hawley would personally meet climbers arriving on the limited international flights into Kathmandu, often spotting them by their distinctive mountaineering boots. Later, mountaineers themselves began seeking her out.
Recognizing the historical significance and fragility of the archive, American climber Richard Salisbury proposed digitizing the collection in 1991. This monumental undertaking, which took nearly 11 years, involved converting “nearly 40 full file drawers” of handwritten expedition reports into a searchable digital resource, Salisbury recounted.
The Database: A Cornerstone of Mountaineering
The Himalayan Database has become a critical tool for the mountaineering community. “It was very important for a mountaineer to have their summit recorded in the Himalayan Database,” stated Garrett Madison, an expedition organizer in Nepal since the 2000s. “If it wasn’t recorded, it didn’t happen.”
For climbers like Japanese mountaineer Tatsuro Sugimoto, who recently completed the first ascent of Jarkya, the database is essential for planning new routes and pursuing records. “It is useful; we can check which mountains are unclimbed,” he said.
Challenges of an Expanding Frontier
The sheer scale of Himalayan expeditions has expanded dramatically, mirroring the growth in climbing itself. Commercial expeditions now bring hundreds of climbers each season, with many aiming for multiple summits.
“At one point I thought, ‘this is no longer possible’,” Bierling admitted. “I would be only running around. More and more mountains were being commercialised.” To supplement personal interviews, the database now incorporates official expedition numbers from Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism.
Bierling noted the logistical challenge: “If we wanted to meet everybody in person, we’d need an army of 100 people. It’s all so quick. People come and go, they fly in, they fly out.” This season alone, Nepal has issued a record 492 Everest permits for foreigners, leading to a substantial tent city at the mountain’s base.
Focusing on Significant Ascents
The emphasis has increasingly shifted towards documenting significant ascents, such as first summits or the establishment of new routes that push the boundaries of the sport. “The interesting climbs we chase,” Bierling explained.
However, the database adheres to one of Hawley’s fundamental principles: trusting the climber’s account initially. “Only when doubt arises do we dig in and look into it,” said Tobias Pantel, a 39-year-old volunteer. This verification process can involve examining photographs and cross-referencing with other climbers’ reports. Consequently, some ascents are now marked as “disputed” in the records.
Reflecting on the ongoing work, Bierling mused, “I often wonder what would Miss Hawley say.”
